How To Button a Double-Breasted Suit

Anyone who has ever tried on a new double-breasted suit knows that buttoning it can be a bit intimidating. For novices to formal wear in particular it can seem like a Herculean task. But buttoning your double-breasted suit well is not only a huge boost to your appearance but also shows that you know what you’re doing when it comes to sartorial etiquette. Here’s a quick guide to nailing the art of buttoning your double-breasted suit.

Knowing About Double-Breast Suits

The characteristic features of the DB jacket are the twin columns of buttons and the front overlapping flaps, and it’s considered a classic look of menswear with a touch of timeless class. Double-breasted suits can be as classic or modern as you prefer.

Types of Double-Breasted Jackets

Classical Double Breasted: A common tailoring style, the jacket is wide and has a boxy line, usually creating a retro look akin to old Hollywood glamor.

A modern Double Breasted will tend to be more tailored, with a slimmer cut, tighter skirt, and narrower lapels, matching contemporary tastes while preserving the impeccable dignity of the archetype.

Buttoning Rules for Double-Breasted Suits

Basic Buttoning Guide

When buttoning a double-breasted suit, follow these fundamental rules:

Leave the bottom button undone: This practice originates from an old military style that helps the suit maintain symmetry and drape.

Middle button – or both middle buttons: Whether you should or shouldn’t fasten the middle button depends entirely on the cut of your suit. Armor-finish military tailoring dictates both middle buttons should be left undone, while soft-shouldered Italian tailoring dictates that all buttons should be done.

Make the top button optional: Many especially in a more relaxed dress-code environment, prefer to leave the top button undone for a relaxed but elegant effect.

Experiment with button options: A double-breasted suit is all about you: you can play around with your buttons to find what works.

Too many buttons: Don’t button every button on the jacket if you can avoid it. It restricts movement and detracts from the cleanliness of the suit.

Make sure the fit is good: Should cut in nicely at the waist with no pull (or gape) at the buttons.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

What may be the most classic piece of menswear that you can ever own is a double-breasted suit. It gives you a touch of sophistication and style. Nevertheless, it has several features, and then to wear it properly, and not look sloppy or awkward, it’s vital to know how to do it. So keep away from these eight mistakes the next time you’re wearing a double-breasted suit:

Choosing the Wrong Fit

Perhaps the most grievous error your son can make when dressing is to be seen in a double-breasted suit that does not fit him nicely. Double-breasted is a more structured style than single-breasted, so fit here is very important. The suit must not be too tight not up on your shoulders but it must not be too loose, either. If it is, everything you do will just look messy and sloppy. I believe that a young man should not wear a double-breasted suit ever.

Ignoring the Importance of the Right Buttoning

It helps to know how to button a double-breasted suit. You should always button the middle button (of a six-button suit) or the top button (of a four-button suit), leaving the bottom undone. Never button all the buttons because it doesn’t look right it compromises your range of movement and ruins the shape of the suit’s natural drape.

Overlooking the Suit’s Proportions

One of the biggest errors in trouser wearing is that men don’t pay enough attention to suit proportions: the jacket should come down to the rear and finish around mid-thigh; the lapels should be proportionate to your build (more flamboyant and wide for big guys, more restrained and narrow for slimmer types); don’t go too wide or too narrow with your lapels: extremes can date a man, or make him look bizarre.

Mismatching Accessories

Double-breasted suits are already a more formal piece of clothing and are best accessorized with suit garments; that is, they need polished additions. When you wear a double-breasted, stay away from breakfast items; ie, skinny ties, golf shirts, or ‘awesome’ shirt combinations, which clash with the formality of the suit; opt for understated statement pieces. For example, pick a classic tie, a dress shirt, and a suit-colour pocket square to tie to the suit. When it comes to double-breasted suits, more is never more.

Neglecting the Trousers

Although the jacket is the hero, don’t neglect the trousers; just because you’ve mastered the jacket doesn’t mean you’ll look like a fossil with the wrong leg length. Trouser length has to work – either slightly floppy, which won’t work with the slim jacket or the nice skinny one you’re wearing; skin teeny, like you’re playing piano behind your back, likewise
Never be excessively skinny or excessively baggy (even if you’re not). Skinny and baggy can both mess up the suit.

Wearing the Suit in Inappropriate Settings

A double-breasted suit will inevitably be more formal. Wear it to an informal event and you’ll look overdressed. Save your double breast for more formal events only for a wedding, some business meetings, or for evening wear. There are lots of different styles of double-breasted suits. Some have the added refinement of peak lapels, making them perfect for formal functions.

Ignoring Fabric Choices

One of the most important factors to consider when choosing any item of men’s clothing is fabric. This is particularly relevant when selecting a suit, and double-breasted suits are no different. However, your biggest mistake might be to choose a fabric that is not appropriate for the occasion, or for the time of year. For example, an over-heavy wool suit is likely to be far too warm in summer, and a soft lightweight linen suit in winter will not have enough structure to hold its shape.

Not Considering Your Body Type

Not all double-breasted suits suit all body types. If you carry your weight in the middle, you might want to go for a suit with a wider lapel and a more fitted curve at the waist, whereas if you are slimmer, a suit with a narrower lapel and a slightly looser fit through the body might help to add some volume and substance. Avoid styles that draw attention to areas that you would prefer to serve downplay.

Occasions for Wearing Double-Breasted Suits

Double-breasted suits are versatile garments suitable for various occasions, including:

Formal Events: Weddings, galas, and black-tie affairs.

Business Meetings: Convey professionalism and confidence in the workplace.

Special Celebrations: Anniversaries, graduations, and milestone birthdays.

Conclusion

Buttoning the double-breasted suit to its traditional standards requires attention to detail and comprehension of the various etiquettes of traditional menswear. By adhering to the buttoning codes detailed here, you are prepared to embrace the formality of most occasions with a polished, reserved appearance.

With this information in hand, you will now be officially able to append your belt, saunter through the supermarket checkout aisle, and greet any delivery person outside your house in a double-breasted suit that’s as sexy as hell and drapes like a dream on your body. Remember that whether you button or not, and if so how many, is not about rules – it’s about style and swagger.

Whether you are dressing for an evening occasion, entering into the boardroom, or simply trying to improve your day-to-day dressage, the right fit and attention to small details will make sure your double-breasted suit makes just the right impression, so button up and pay attention!

As you continue to explore the world of menswear over time, don’t be afraid to play around with different looks and accessories to create your signature style. It is about projecting your individuality and confidence through your clothes and not just following the trends.

So, in conclusion: buttoning a double-breasted suit is a skill worth learning for any well-groomed gent. Take on board the tips outlined here, and with a little practice you’ll be able to add a bit more panache to the next double-breasted tailored jacket you slide into.